Sado has five sake breweries and we know all of them. Hokusetsu, founded 1872, makes the house sake that Nobu pours worldwide and ages some of it at zero degrees under music. Obata, founded 1892, makes Manotsuru, served in Air France first class, and brews a summer batch in a closed village school. Tenryohai is seven minutes from the port and offers a night tour of the tanks. Kato, founded 1915, makes sake most of which never leaves the island. Henmi is the smallest and the only one using the old yamahai method.
A private morning with a brewer, on request, if that house will have you.
The table follows the sea. From late November the thunder the islanders call buri-okoshi brings the winter yellowtail into Ryotsu Bay: ten-kilo fish, hand-picked on the boat. From the same month the oysters of Lake Kamo, which reach size in a year, are shucked in huts on the water. Sea bream runs in May; rock oysters and abalone in summer; nodoguro in autumn; and in late November the Le Lectier pear, picked in October and kept until it is ready.
Dinner is at the house, cooked by a chef we bring in, paired with the island’s sake. When you want the table on the sand instead, we can carry it there, on request.
A brewery before the public hour, on request. A table set for two.